Sometimes....

....this is the only answer

Surf bros.......

A good surf bro is priceless. You go into these relationships much the same as you would looking for a prospective wife....these are meant to last. You analyze important factors like "will this dude get his ass out of bed at 5am for a good swell or will he still be digging eye boogers and yawning when you show up at his house to roll?" or "will this potential surf bro push my surfing to be better, or does he lack the eye of the tiger in the water?"...This shit is serious. It's a place for me to decompress, in the water....but when it's ON...I'm not there to dick around. I want to rip that shit up, and i expect my bro to be as amped as I am that it's offshore, tide's right, and it's head high! And above all.....NEVER is it acceptable to flake out a good surf session for a woman. EVER. That will put you in lifetime Bro-bation with no chance of parole. I have to admit that i have been seriously bummed out in the past when a bro moves away, or gets married, leaving me "single" again. I fuckin' hate crowds in the lineup. I occasionally surf alone, and while its nice sometimes, it's not the same. At least your odds are better in the event that there's a hungry great white cruising around. So with the importance of the surf-bro summed up in my own way, let me now give a shout out of sorts to some of my surf bros over the last 15 years. All of them different in their own right, but when it comes to what matters- the surf session, these guys got it down. Hell, here's proof: when i got stung on back of the head by a jellyfish one session, Craig offered to pee on my head to nuetralize the sting! Now that's a surf bro!
here is a list of my surf bros worth honorable mention: Craig, Kevin, Don, Tyson, and good 'ol Pat. Pictured above is Craig (on the righ) and me on the left having a post-surf smoke.

perspective

What i once saw as a way down, i now see as a way out. I heard somewhere, perhaps in a film something to this effect: "What does one do when one has no way out? He digs himself further in." This does prove to be the case often times. Luck was on my side and i stopped digging. We all need to put the shovel down and look around to see how deep we are sometimes. Deep in a pit of our own making, walls grown up around us while we dig, eyes fixed downward, unaware. Someone threw me a rope. A cab driver from Manhattan. Who'd of thought? Giving back that precious gift that was so freely given to him. Now I have this rope i carry around with me....ready to throw it down should i find someone who wants out of their own rabbit hole. I'm alive.